Greyfriars Kirkyard

Edinburgh, Scotland

Opening Greyfriars gate was quiet an internal struggle for me as the history of this graveyard is as lengthy as it is years in age but also fearing I might not be able to do it justice, but I think why not? Before I do it is also good for readers to know Kirk is Scottish for Church used throughout this entry. Thus, a kirkyard is a churchyard or graveyard as many know it by and now clearing that up, we can begin. First established in 1620 next to the Greyfriars Kirk from Royal sanction, Greyfriars was to replace the graveyard at St. Giles Cathedral in Edinburgh. For those unfamiliar with St. Giles and the city of Edinburgh it is located near the heart of the city making it not the ideal graveyard for assorted reasons. The Royal decree stated "Because it is thought beneficial that there should be no more burials within the church [i.e. St Giles], and because that kirkyard is not thought to have sufficient room for burying the dead, and taking into consideration the smell and inconvenience in the heat of summer, it would be provided [by the council] that a burial place be made further from the middle of town, such as in Greyfriars yard, and the same [should be] built up and made secure" The number of the souls interred within is unknown from mass graves, forgotten gravesites and the covenanter's prison on the grounds. The Greyfriars Kirkyard gets its name from the Franciscan friary from the church whose friars wore grey robs.  The friary was dissolved around 1558ish, but the name buried in tradition stayed.

The Signing of the National Covenant in Greyfriars Kirkyard, Edinburgh by William Allan

History unbeknownst to this hallowed ground was about to occur. In 1638 the National Covenant in the Kirkyard started where thousands of Scottish men pledged to resist the changes imposed by Charles the I. Charles and his father James the 6th over saw Church organization and doctrine something followers of the Covenant disagreed with. They believed themselves to have a "Covenant", or agreement with God within their faith following the Presbyterian structure and primacy of church leaders in religious affairs. Effectively starting one of the three wars in the Wars of the Three Kingdoms or better known as the British Civil Wars. This signing in the Kirkyard was a huge milestone in Scottish history. Even later in 1838 an oil painting by William Allan President of the Royal Scottish Academy and Master of the Trustee's Academy was created to mark its significance. This painting now hangs in City Art Centre, in Edinburgh. After the signing the Covenanters took control of the Scottish government eventually leading to events that caused Scotland to become part of the British Commonwealth. I am painfully and obviously cutting out a many huge other parts within these years that lead up to Scotland's addition, but this waylays into huge historical events away from the Greyfriars Kirk that I suggest readers investigate on their own. Scottish history often is overlooked by British in history classes sadly, but the county had so much influence and partake in historical events. It is something that makes Scotland quiet the Unicorn fittingly similarly their national animal. Back to the Covenanters in Greyfriars Kirk a years later after the signing in 1679 saw the defeat of the militant Covenanters at Bothwell Brig. By this timeframe, the Scottish army was defeated in a failed attempt to invade England and Charles the First had been executed back in 1649 just to give you a wide idea of noteworthy events. Around 1200 covenanters were taken prisoner after defeat in the battle of Bothwell Brig in June and left imprisoned in a field just south of the kirkyard. This area of the Kirkyard is now known as Covenanters' Prison. Many were left for several months in the area until they were finally transported to the colonies in November. Being a prisoner back in these times lead many to be severely abuse, to be malnourished or lead to death and many of those in charge just did not care. Each prisoner was allotted just 4 ounces of bread a day with no shelter. Sometimes citizens were kind enough to give them more food but rarely. Anyone who fought or sided with the Covenanters were recognized as rebels and traitors leading into a repression called "the Killing Time" in Covenanter histories. This led to some dying in the field, others were put on trial and then executed for treason and yet others set free, if they agreed to sign a bond of loyalty to the Crown. All those who were persecuted and died for their support of the National Covenant in the reigns of Charles II and James VII are commemorated by the Martyrs' Memorial on the north-eastern wall of the kirkyard. When within the grounds today "Covenanters' Prison" which was amalgamated into the Kirk in the 18th century now has vaulted tombs. These did not exist nor were established when the ground was used as a prison. The vaulted tombs are known as enclosed burial lairs and used as a deterrent against grave robbery. They can easily be spotted characterized by solid stone walls or iron railings, served as protective barriers for the resting places of the deceased. Greyfriars like many other graveyards in its time during the 18th century dealt with its issues of grave robbery. In the 19th century the graveyard used a technic that featured two low ironwork cages over the graves. These were leased to family's to safeguarded bodies from grave robbers and ensured the sanctity of the deceased known as mortsafes. After the body was past it is time useful to robbers they were then removed and reused again. Helping visitors to know the full history of the grounds there is a plaque in the graveyard explaining to visitors the events prior and where this area gets its name. The Prison was open to the public until around 1990 when it was locked by the City of Edinburgh Council. This was sadly due to vandalism and drug-users finding refuge in the tombs. The area is now only accessible during the day by special arrangement with the guides of Greyfriars Kirk or at night with a ghost tour. Graveyards often can claim hauntings but few a poltergeist. Greyfriars Kirkyard however can and has. Located in left-hand wall of the Greyfriars Kirkyard when you enter from the main gates lies the Black Mausoleum and interred within is Sir George Mackenzie of Rosehaugh.

The Black Mausoleum of Bloody Mackenzie

Sir Mackenzie was lawyer and the Lord Advocate during the rule of Charles II and quickly earned a reputation as one of the most vicious persecutors of the Covenanters. His brutal and callous take toward protesters was legendary and had them imprisoned in Greyfriars. His reputation eventually earning him the nickname Bloody Mackenzie from allowing guards to beat and torture prisoners much to his own delight. Many subjects after being tortured had their heads placed up on a spiked gate letting all see their grim fate and what might become of others.  Oddly enough he is interment at Greyfriars within the Black Mausoleum famously is not just for his cruelty in life but also his actions in the afterlife. Many visitors prior to the Black Mausoleum being locked experienced poltergeist activity and even after. Now before I go into the activity experienced, I think you readers if you do not, need to know the difference between a ghost and a poltergeist. More commonly a ghost is soul or spectra of a person who is passed on, usually believed to inhabit the netherworld and to be capable of returning in some form to the world of the living. Where is a poltergeist is a disembodied spirit or supernatural force credited with certain malicious or disturbing phenomena. Mackenzie in death even seems to attempt to torture his visitors in delight near or within the Black Mausoleum. Accounts reported of being pushed, scratched, and feeling nauseous to the point of passing out have occurred. One tour guide Jan-Andrew Henderson came forward saying forty-nine visitors on his ghost tour of the Covenanters Prison over a course of 8 months had some sort of paranormal experience the occurred during their walking tour. Experiencing the feeling of being watched, touched and cuts or scratches to their faces. One visitor was quoted saying “It felt as though there were a hand over my mouth, I couldn’t see anything,” she said. “Then I started to feel faint and the next thing I knew I was away sitting on the ground. Everyone was asking if I was all right, but I was really confused. The next morning, I woke up with a bruise on my left cheek and my neck. I could not believe it as I was not aware of hurting myself when I fainted. I started feeling it must have been something to do with a ghost.” There's also tale is of a schoolchild who hid inside the Black Mausoleum one night to avoid a beating from a master at George Heriot's School and came out insane after encountering whatever might be within. Swirling rumors of what has been nicknamed the Mackenzie poltergeist and its activity caught the attention of Colin Grant, a minister of a spiritualist church and owner of the Clairvoyant shop in St Mary’s Street in Edinburgh. In November of 1999 Grant armed with a candle, cross to ward off evil entities and a Bible decided Greyfriars needed an exorcism. Accompanied by the local press Grant claimed he finally cast out the evil spirits trapped within the Kirkyard for centuries. The ritual was not without an appearance though of what most believe is Bloody Mackenzie. Behind Grant near the end other ritual a dark shape was witnessed gliding across a window in the kirk even though it was locked, and no one was inside. Turning many of the non-believing press into believers very quickly. Grants efforts are in vain as two months later more reports of activity were made. Around the same period in January Grant expressed fears his work might just kill him, and sadly on the 26 he passed away during a seance in his Clairvoyant Shop of a heart attack. Whether Grants death was a result of the exorcism or from natural causes it's up to listeners to decide. Marking the site where hundreds were beheaded and or buried near the Grass market, stands the "Martyrs Memorial" commemorating around 18,000 Covenanters who died for their beliefs. Per tradition most were behead and then had their heads placed on spikes usually on gates into Edinburgh. One of the most popular gates was Netherbow Gate that no longer stands on the top of Canongate in the city. If they were not placed on the gates some had their heads, arms or a body part sent home to send a message to others who might show interest in resisting the King's will. If you are not paying attention or not a Harry Potter fan some gravestone inscriptions in Greyfriars might not sound too familiar. Many though will know the names of Potter, Black, Tom Riddle, Moodie, Cruickshanks, and McGonagall from JK Rowling's Harry Potter. The Kirkyard served as inspiration for her character's name in the novels and also Godric’s Hollow. When you enter turn right after entering the gates and look toward the left side grass area. This is the area, you'll find the tombstone of Anne and Robert Potter, the inspiration for Harry Potter's last name. McGonagall for who Professor McGonagall name inspiration was ironically was one the worst poets in Scottish history and originally was buried in an pauper's unmarked grave. In 1999 as inscribed slab was later installed bearing his name. Alongside it's famous interred when hearing the legends of Greyfriars it is necessary to include Greyfriars's Bobby. A statue at the corner of Edinburgh's Candlemaker Row and George IV Bridge commemorate the adorable pup. The famous legend about the Skye Terrier is known by all in Scotland and beyond. Bobby was looked after by a local police officer John Gray for the last two years of his life. Upon John Gray's death he was interred in Greyfriars's and Bobby guarded his grave for 14 years. Capturing the heart of Lord Provost William Chambers who commissioned Bobby's statue, he would bring the pup food and anything else he needed at Gray's grave. Throughout Scotland Bobby's story is famous and even Disney worthy when in 1961 they released the film Greyfriars Bobby: The True Story of a Dog. When he eventually passed away Bobby was buried just inside the gate of Greyfriars Kirkyard, close to John Gray's grave. His dog collar can now be found in the Museum of Edinburgh. His headstone was erected by the Dog Aid Society in 1981 and receives many visitors from everywhere. Many of Scotland's most beautiful mural monuments are in Greyfriars. Rich in symbolism they depict themes of immortality and morality including Death's Head, Angel of Resurrection, and the King of Terrors. European renown Latin scholar George Buchanan has a large and beautiful memorial on the grounds, but his gravesite is unknown. He was at one time imprisoned by the Inquisition spending two years of his incarceration translating the Psalms of David into Latin. Buchanan was the first to apply the term 'Celtic' to his native Gaelic culture, thus linking the pre-Roman inhabitants of Iron Age Britain to the Kelts of Europe. Upon his return to Scotland in 1561 he embraced the reformed religion and tutored Mary, Queen of Scots. Whom he denounced after the murder of her husband, Darnley. Then in 1567 was appointed first lay moderator of the General Assembly of the Church of Scotland. Yet again in 1570 he once again became a tutor to four-year-old James VI, being trusted to give the young king a protestant education effectively turning him against his mother's ideas of rule by divine right. Buchanan died in 1582 and is considered the most profound intellectual sixteenth century Scottish mind. Now if some of the dates are little confusing to some of you listeners, I too was a little confused. I began double checking dates and wondering where I when wrong as they did not seem to add up with burials within and when the Kirk was established but I did not. Prior to Greyfriars actual establishment the land of the friary passed into the possession of Mary Queen of Scots in 1560, who subsequently granted it to the town council, for use as a burial ground, later bordered by the famous Flodden Wall. thus, allowing burials prior to its establishment and clearing my confusion. The church adjacent to the graveyard was to be the first post-Reformation church built in Edinburgh. The build however was extremely slow, and the church did not open till Christmas Day in 1620. When you visit, you will notice on the outside more than the inside with a double entrance porch on the north side of the building. The church had originally two churches that have separate entrances for each separate congregation. Yet this is not the reason for the double entrance but it's from an accident-waiting-to-happen scenario in 1718. For some reason, the Town Council decided to use a small squat tower to store its gunpowder, and it of course blew up. The west end of the church was completely ruined having a new west wall was built, two bays into the church. It also experienced a fire in 1845 destroying the furnishings of New Greyfriars. Today visitors can see traces of fire damage still on the eastern part of the church. It is ministering Robert Lee D.D. used the fire to completely change the church and its ways. The church was bland, had zero songs, no standing and nothing otherworldly. The restoration had the windows made into lancets and stained glass, the first in any Scottish parish church since the Reformation. The stained glass in the Greyfriars is mid-Victorian and was installed as a permanent memorial to people who, in their day, occupied prominent positions in the Church.

Greyfriars Bobby

The large East Window depicts the parables of the Prodigal Son, the Good Samaritan, the Pharisee, and the Publican, and the Wise and Foolish Virgin. It became open to art and beaty within for prisoners. Hymns were then sung during mass giving it a urethral feel. Lee saw backlash from officials but after a few years his new implementations became normal for every kirk growing into a community not just Parishers. Visitors today see the interior that was restored between 1931 and 1938. Where the two churches were combined arcades were restored, and a ceiling of Californian redwood was built over the six bays of the original church. The west end of the church has a magnificent Peter Collins organ built in 1990 to replace the Hamilton organ originally sited in the north-west corner. It is 3,400 pipes with the Latin motto inscribed from the last verse of Psalm 150 ‘Let everything that hath breath praise the Lord’. is breathtaking. The kirkyard is wrapped by Edinburgh's famous Flodden wall. The Wall began at the south side of the castle, running south across the west end of the Grass market, where the West Port was located, and continued uphill along the Vennell. Walls in Scottish and control who or what went in and out, battles and safety. Greyfriars partake in history was essential and pivotal. Crossing into its gates is a journey into time and yet you know you're in the present. It is dark, turbulent, and yet beautifully human. So many are buried within of historical significance I have not mentioned either. James Craig: Architect of the New Town, Poet Allan Ramsay, Walter Scott: Father of Sir Walter Scott, George Haliburton: Bishop of Dunkeld and Adam Anderson: Physicist just to name a few. I sadly cannot give you every single one's history or this entry might never end. Yet places like Greyfriars are essential to history and their residents' memories remembered. People who stood up for their beliefs, changed history, and how religion was practiced. Entering and learning how essential their sacrifices to history for what we take for guaranteed today can be humbling. Knowing inspiration for even one soul that can transform lives from stories worldwide from one place like Greyfriars is invaluable for history. I hope if you ever make it across the pond or if you live closer you plan a journey to enter Greyfriars gates.