The Garden of Death

London, England

Highgate Cemetery’s Entrance and Chapels

It is one of the magnificent seven and notorious for hauntings, ghosts, rock n roll parties, vampires, and burial ground of London’s elite Victorian members of society. Highgate is one of the top 10 cemeteries in the world and a must see. It has a long history filled with gothic Victorian architecture and surprisingly a nature reserve. The cemetery is open 10-5pm daily except Christmas Day and Boxing Day with an entry fee of 10 pounds per adult and children 7-18 are 6 pounds (Children younger 7 are free). The west side (older side) can only be entered with a tour and if you are looking to only enter the east side a discounted ticket option is available. I highly recommend the tour as you have access to both sides of the cemetery for the day and the tour guides are some of the most knowledgeable, I have ever had for any tour or experience. The cemetery originally was run by the private London Cemetery Company which is no longer in business but now oversaw by the charity, Friends of Highgate.

Established in 1839, the cemetery was part of a larger plan to help bury London’s ever-growing population. In the 19th century London’s population doubled in size (1ish to 2ish million) causing more than just overcrowded housing. The normally small parish graveyards saw an impossible strain on space, but even larger problems occurred. Decaying bodies were contaminating water supplies, causing epidemics, rats defiling loved ones, grave robbers and burials over already filled plots. Parliament started passing acts encouraging the development of private cemeteries to unburden parishes. After an inspirational visit to Paris’s Père Lachaise cemetery, London architects developed a plan to form seven large cemeteries near London’s outer city. Highgate was the third of the seven planned for the city in the northwestern region of London near Camden. All but one of these seven are still active cemeteries to this day and can be visited.

The men behind Highgate Cemetery are Stephen Geary, James Bunstone Bunning (who are buried within the grounds) and David Ramsay a self-proclaimed ‘garden architect.’ Geary became most famously known for Highgate’s Egyptian Avenue and the Terrace Catacombs. Bunning for the Colonnade (more of a portico), between the courtyard of the chapels and the entry gate into the west side. The cemetery houses 170,000 souls on 15 acres of consecrated and 2 acres of unconsecrated land; split on either side of Swain Ln in the London Borough of Camden. The original cemetery’s land was expanded after just 15 years due to popularity in London Society. During the establishment of the magnificent seven Victorian’s obsession and attitude toward death made the cemeteries a fashionable and popular destination. Geary created the Circle of Lebanon, The Egyptian Avenue, and the Terrace Catacombs surrounded by lush gardens envisioned by Ramsey. Visitors could take tea on the roof of the catacombs while visiting family plots in high fashion. Showing off not only meant a family plot was reserved in one of the seven but crypts, tombs, and monuments to lost loved ones were hand crafted in Victorian gothic splendor. Of those, most notably is the mausoleum of Julius Beer. It was built for his daughter Ada who tragically passed away at the age of 8 from Scarlet Fever. Stricken by grief he built the finest monument in the cemetery sparing no expense and it still is to this day. The mausoleum is grand in size with larger-than-life bronze doors, a mosaic ceiling by Salviati (from Venice) and a lifelike statue of Ada being lifted to heaven. The statue of Ada he commissioned was completed the same year as his passing at just 43 years old in 1880. This mausoleum is an example of the opulent expression Victorians took grief and death within Highgate Cemetery.

These cemeteries also gave the upper class the ability to protect their loved ones. In the 19th century grave robbery became a huge problem in the city of London. Selling anything of value, including bodies, was a common and heartbreaking experience for the families. High brick walls and only a few gates saw robbery decrease significantly becoming harder and harder. The catacombs were the safest part of the cemetery as they were locked and only unlocked by family members or by being escorted.

The grounds within Highgate Cemetery are full of wildflowers, shrubs, and wildlife making the Victorian Gothic splendor of the graves feel even more ostentatious at times. The irony of this is in the 1970’s the cemetery was falling into disarray. Saved from a charity formed called the Friends of Highgate. Memberships are available, but the only other source of revenue is from the entry tickets into the grounds and donations. Volunteers help run the cemetery from caring of the grounds to the tours. Passionate and fully aware of the historical significance of preservation, their efforts are astonishing and can be seen when visiting. In the 1960’s though Highgate was dilapidated and lost to time, it was a vastly different place. The garden from its heyday was overgrown, taking over the grounds, but it was not abandoned by the public at all. In fact, breaking into the cemetery was a common occurrence nightly with parties, vandalism, vampire hunts and recreational drug use. Once a place of London high society during the day became the scene of the party at night. Teens intrigued by tales looking for answers and thrills would climb the walls to explore. Rock n’ Roll legends are rumored to have partied in the catacombs. The damage of broken seals within and open coffins are signs from these nights. The nightlife in the cemetery led to stories and accounts of ghosts (from spectral visions to disembodied voices), a ‘grey figure’ walking through the graves and more. How many of these stories were true or how effects from partying conjured them into reality are speculatory. Stories sent to local newspapers morphed into tales for the public. One tale of a Vampire buried on the grounds before Highgate’s conception became more popular than others. The media snatched it up and the public became ravenous for more. Illegal vampire or ghost hunts started happening with local police attempting to keep the cemetery clear. The most famous incident was The Vampire Hunt on Friday the 13th in 1970 lead by two men. News crews broadcasted the event at the gates, which caused an even larger gathering during the broadcast. The crowds then illegally climbed the gates/walls while being chased by the overwhelmed police. In the end everyone was removed but vaults that were vandalized, broken into and tombs suffered damage from the frenzy. The story of the Highgate Vampire, however, is still alive today with books, society and even a movie made. Leaving more public intrigue into tales and legends from within the grounds. Many visit hoping to see evidence of his existence but so far there have not been any sightings.

The Circle of Lebanon being overlooked by the Mausoleum of Julius Beer

The main gates on Swains Road into Highgate feel more like going into a royal palace than a cemetery. High walls with iron gates and two chapels meet you in fine splendor. One chapel for members of the Church of England and the other for dissenters. A large courtyard sends you across to the Colonnade. Every part of the design from entry to exit was meticulously designed for the eye to visually grasp guests into believing this was the afterlife. The entry into the West side sees visitors through a gate up a stairway into the cemetery. A node into a way of entering heaven or the afterlife. Graves are set along uneven natural paths that almost make visitors feel like they are on a beginner's hike (so beware if you are planning to visit). Natural vines covering the Egyptian Avenue give it a grand ethereal feel to visitors while momentarily causing them to forget their grief. The obsession or interest of Egyptology can also be seen here. The Avenue was once enclosed but lost over the years. You then head through the Avenue with a set of eight family vaults on either side, room for 12 coffins. Each elaborately decorated with stonework to loved ones with symbolism. Most lie half full but house something even more rare, black orb spiders (cave spiders). Not native to England, it remains a mystery of how these spiders are in the vaults even today. It is believed they were brought back in a coffin by one of the buried residents (speculation). They, however, are not seen by many visitors thankfully as they do not like daylight. Leading guests next to The Circle of Lebanon’s double ring of mausoleums and tombs. Sadly in 2019 the cedar of Lebanon tree, for which the double ring was named after, was cut down due to disease and decay (it was replaced). The site still gives visitors pause and reflection with architecture and size of the tombs. Some might be familiar with the Circle of Lebanon from Harry Potter’s Fantastic Beasts and Where to Find Them. A scene in the film featured the Circle. Meandering a little further you find the cemeteries terrace catacombs and the Mausoleum of Julius Beer. Situated at the highest peak of Highgate, Geary’s vision of the terrace in the 19th century was one of beauty. Today the views are obstructed by the growth of trees. Yet in its heyday views of central London were breathtaking for its visitors. By design the catacombs have no electricity so they are illuminated by skylights. Making the catacombs eerie and gives visitors chills even on the hottest of days. Three locked gates guard the catacombs which house twenty-nine coffins on the north side and twenty-six coffins on the south. Each coffin is sealed with a block of white marble, granite, a glass pane, or an iron grate depending on the family's preference. The 320-foot terrace was Highgate's crown jewel selling point. Advertising using the terrace was a part of its lure and popularity. Families would promenade and take tea admiring the views of central London.

The Circle of Lebanon, Highgate Cemetery

Filled with high society and ostentatious vaults, Highgate also saw its fair share of the poor inside its walls too. Buried in mass graves on unconcentrated land is one of the terrible tales of London’s past. Marked as a burial ground also for English dissenters or separatists of different faith were allocated in this area. In an unmarked grave filled with girls and women are buried in this section. Once inmates at the Highgate penitentiary for “fallen women” their stories remained a mystery until researchers in 2014 uncovered their past. Catholics looking to be buried within also were allowed to be buried here. Families split in their views with faith would be across from each other on either consecrated or unconcentrated land. The unconsecrated land, marks Britain's past of persecution of non-conformity and the hardships some endured even in death from poverty.

The East side of the cemetery is equally beautiful but filled with more modern graves. Filled with less large than life goth Victorian fair, its beauty is still renowned and gardens elite. The most famous grave on the east is Karl Marx, the father of communism. Originally buried in 1883 in a small grave next to his wife, he received a larger more prominent grave in 1956 from the Marx Memorial fund. In 1970 two bombings occurred at the grave but no severe damage occurred. His followers find the tomb a place of veneration where others find it a place of vandalism.

A love story that turned sour and grim also haunts these grounds. Famous pre-Raphaelite Brotherhood model Elisabeth Siddal is buried within. The beautiful model married one of the founders Dante Gabriel Rossetti, but their happiness was short lived. Her continuing health problems (from modeling) and Rossetti’s infidelity cause immense strain on their marriage. Her husband of two years came home to find her dying from an accidental overdose of Laudanum. He then wrote a series of love poems to her while mourning over her casket which was buried with her, but the story does not stop here. Seven years later, with his reputation failing, his agent suggested retrieving the poems to sell and Rossetti agreed. He then signed an exhumation order and for privacy had her exhumed in the middle of the night from the family tomb. Expecting to see a decaying cadaver, the diggers were speechless when they found Elisabeth perfectly preserved, appearing to be asleep. Rossetti did not have the bravery to assist and was absent. The poems were removed but never gave Rossettii the fortune he assumed they would. The exhumation haunted him for the rest of his life.

The Terrace Catacombs, Highgate Cemetery

The list of London’s elites buried within the walls of Highgate is a long one. George Michael, Malcom Maclaren, sci-fi author Douglas Adams and Russian Itelligence Agent Alexander Litvinenko are just the start of who is buried. George Michael is somewhere in the West side, but tour guides will not divulge any information on where his grave exactly is. From a famous Boxer, firefighters, women of the night, naval officers, or men who amassed fortunes in finance, the list within the 170,000 buried is impressive. However different their levels of society they all found familiarity in death. Being remembered by visitors on a tour or families looking to mourn past members some might not have the same ostentatious graves yet lie six feet below in the same box. Whatever the reason you might find yourself at Highgate’s gates it is worth the price of admission for a stroll into history, beautiful wildlife, and one-of-a-kind architecture.

Highgate Cemetery

Bonaventure Cemetery

Myles Standish Burial Ground